ULTRA-pur, ULTRA-mineral, ULTRA-elegant and ULTRA-dry.
More by Eric Asimov/NYTimes:
„I recently drank one based on 2009 grapes, which was ripe and round yet showed great finesse, depth, precision and energy. With its floral, mineral aromas and flavors, which turned almost stony as the wine warmed up, it showed such elegance that it could almost be mistaken for a blanc de blancs if not for its amplitude and the slight suggestion of berry flavors. It runs around $90, and I would love to see how this wine ages.“